The Process
Have you ever wondered how fine custom jewelry was created? The process is really very simple. Most fine jewelry is created using a technique called the "lost wax" method.
First a specific design has to be created. This usually requires a person who has a fair amount of ability to render a drawing which looks like the finished piece!
Once the designer and client agree on the design, the next step is for the item to be carved using a special wax (there are different wax products depending on the object desired).
The designer and client meet and approve the wax. Now is the time for any changes to be made. At this time, any appropriate stones can be placed to give the client an idea of what the finished piece will look like and to check for size, fit etc.
Next the wax model is set up in a metal cylinder so that a plaster-like material can be poured over the entire piece. This is then set out to dry.
Next comes the oven. This next step is critical- it takes a trained artisan to work the oven so that it heats to the proper temperature over the proper sequence of hours. If this step is not done properly the piece may be badly damaged or need a lot of repair. Assuming that all has gone well, once this step is completed the wax will have drained out and the remaining plaster is now the mold into which your metal of choice (silver, gold or platinum) will be cast.
After the metal is cast, it is ready to be finished. This is a time-consuming process which requires the use of various tools like small files (much like nail files) and little polishing wheels. Then, any stones (diamonds, rubies, sapphires etc) can be set into the jewelry item. After setting the item gets its final polish and finish before completion.
In some instances a custom made jewelry item will be made from a hand rolled or drawn piece of metal. This process consists of melting and cleaning a piece of gold for instance, until it liquifies into a ball. The piece of gold is then cooled. The piece of gold is then rolled out flat to make a wide thin flat sheet of gold for hand sawpiercing (cutting) a nameplate to make a pendant for example. Using the same process gold is drawn (pulled) through a wire stencil to create wire pieces of gold wire to be used for prongs, lattice work, ring shanks, jump rings, earring posts, gallery wires, etc. This process creates a completely handmade from scratch piece of fine jewelry. The setting of stones and the final polishing will complete the piece.